Welcome to another In Detail post. This week, I’m reviewing the We R Memory Keepers Gift Bag Punch Board. For a review of the Gift Box Punch Board, check out this previous In Detail post.
The Gift Bag Punch Board comes with instructions. The scoring/creasing tool neatly stores within the punch board. The footprint of the Gift Bag Punch Board is smaller than that of the Gift Box Punch Board.
The range of gift bag sizes is limited to Small, Medium or Large. For the Small bag, you start with a paper width of 10" to create a bag that will be 2 ⅝" wide. Similarly, a paper width of 11" results in a bag that’s 3 ⅛" wide, and a paper width of 12" results in a bag that 3 ⅝" wide. These measurements are included in the instructions and they are printed on the punch board. The side panels for all three bag sizes measure 2" wide (the bag’s depth) and cannot be varied. The height of the bag depends on the height of the paper you use. Paper sizes from 4" to 12" can be used, taking into account that the bottom flaps take up 1 ¼". For example, with a 12" by 12" piece of paper, I can craft a bag that’s slightly less than 10 ¾" tall (by my measurement it’s closer to 10 ⅝"), 3 ⅝" wide and 2" deep. With a paper sized 10" by 4", I could craft a bag 2 ¾" tall, 2 ⅝" wide and 2" deep.
After trimming my paper to my desired size, 10" by 6", I lined my paper up on the “Start Line.” Since I was using a paper with a direction, I needed to take that into consideration when I began. You begin by punching out the bag’s bottom flaps, so the paper appears to be upside down, but it’s not.
The first action is to punch with the punch mechanism. I noticed that the Gift Bag Punch Board’s punch was more difficult to press than the one on the Gift Box Punch Board. There’s a “sweet spot” that you’ll figure out once you’ve used it a few times.
After punching, use the tool to horizontally and vertically score the paper. In this case, I was making a Small bag, so I scored vertically on the “S” line.
Next, the paper is shifted to the left until the scored vertical line is aligned with the “Start Line.” Again the paper is punched. For the side panel, score the paper around the Triangle, along the Horizontal line and vertically on the Side lines. One of the Side lines is in the middle of the Triangle.
Following the instructions, I did another round of punching and scoring for the bag’s face and another round for the second side panel.
Panel after punching and scoring faces and sides
In addition to the face and side panels, there will be a tab. We’ll address that in a moment. At this point, the top of the bag can be punched for a string handle or not. We’ll get back to handles, but first we need to finish the bag.
The other side of the punch mechanism has a dual-hole punch. The instructions include a diagram showing where the bag top should be punched with the mechanism.
The tab edge is trimmed at an angle with scissors at the bottom and the top.
Crease the bag along the score lines using the bone folder. I hand creased the side panels.
Apply adhesive to the tab panel. I used 1/8" Be Creative Tape (in retrospect, I wish I’d used a slightly wider tape).
It is recommended that you fold the bag onto itself and adhere for easy alignment.
Next apply adhesive to the bottom flap. I applied two strips of the Be Creative tape to the flap that would be covered. You’ll notice in the photo that one of the strips was too far back and not covered by the other flap. When I made another bag, I applied the adhesive to the flap that would be on top. I found taping the bottom flaps to be the most difficult part of making the bag. You have to simultaneously hold the bag in shape and tape down the flap.
Before we move onto the options for handles, let’s talk about creating a bag where the paper size exceeds the platform size of the Gift Bag Punch Board. The platform is 7 ½" in length, so any paper larger than that will not be scored all the way from the base to the top.
After the punching and scoring are complete, the creasing for the larger paper sizes has to be done by hand.
Let’s assume that you’ve punched holes along the top for a handle. One idea is to thread ribbon through the holes and tie the loop in one corner. The ribbon should be cut to accommodate the desired handle length.
Another idea is to have separate handles. I didn’t like this solution as well since the side panel holes are left punched but empty. A workaround would be to punch a template for the placement of the holes, and use a single punch on the actual bag, but I consider that to be too much work!
The ribbon can also be run through the holes and tied in front.
You can forgo the holes entirely and simply roll down the top. You’ll need to do so twice in order to have a finished appearance.
If the overall paper size is 6" or less in height, then you can die cut the front and/or back panels for added interest to the bag. After punching and scoring, I centered a star die from the My Favorite Things Die-Namics Stax Stars set on the bag front panel and ran it through my die cutting machine.
I can envision using the punch board to create luminarias (paper lanterns) for a fireplace mantle during the holiday season. Use flameless candles inside the luminarias to create interesting light patterns through the die cut front panels.
Dies offer an option to the punch board when you have a specific bag size in mind.
The Lifestyle Crafts Bag Die creates a bag 2 ½" x 1 ¾" x 3".
The Little B Bag Template Diecreates a bag 2 ¾" x 2 ¾".
The My Favorite Things Paper Bag Treat Box creates a bag 2 ¾" x 3 ¾".
The Paper Smooches Deco Bag Die creates a bag 2 ½" x 3 ½".
The Sizzix Tim Holtz In the Bag Die creates a bag 3" x 4 ¾" x ¾".
--Jean
