Waiting at the airport to board our flight for CHA this year, Ellen and I wandered into one of our favorite airport stores and some fun jewelry caught our eye—we were smitten with these pendants that had magnetic backings and could be switched out on a whim with another design. “Too bad they don’t make blanks so we crafty chicks could make our own.”, we sighed, wistfully.
Then we got to CHA. And we found Bottle Cap, Inc. And . . . as I like to say, we got the vapors! Because they make ALL the parts we needed to make our own magnetic, interchangeable pendants! Pendants and bracelets are always fun to make and give—or keep for yourself!
I love how convenient and easy these products are to work with—I’m an instant gratification girl and when I need to make a gift, I want it to be speedy and quick.
To make the pendant in this article, I started with the super strong magnetic discs, a beaded pendant and the acrylic cabochons.
SAFETY NOTE: I do want to mention that the neodymium (N35 grade) magnets for this project are incredibly strong and not intended for children under age 14; they can easily cause injury if not handled properly.
Begin by punching an image from paper, using a 1” punch (the magnets, cabochons and pendant base are all 1”). You could certainly stamp an image, if you wanted, but I had some pretty paper laying around and wanted to use the pretty rose image shown here.
Next, you’ll need to mount the punched image to one of the magnetic discs. The trick here is getting the magnets apart—as I mentioned, they are incredibly strong. I actually tried a variety of methods, and could not pry them apart, but eventually discovered that if I used a wooden craft stick to brace the bottom of the stack of magnets with my thumbs, I could laterally slide the top magnet off. Make sure to keep your fingers firmly over the top magnet as you’re sliding it apart, because when they do suddenly release, it could go flying off over your shoulder.
I actually filmed myself creating this pendant, so if the above is unclear, the video should show you how I did it; you may have another method that works just as well or possibly even better. Feel free to watch the video here below or to see it in high-definition view it here on our You-Tube channel.
Once you have the magnets separated, be sure to return the ones you are not working with back in the packaging; it’s actually the perfect storage for them.
Adhering the punched circle to the magnet is as easy as sending it down the chute of a Xyron “X” machine; it covers the back completely with adhesive that bonds nicely to the magnet.
A clear-drying adhesive, such as Glossy Accents, is perfect for gluing the cabochon over the top of the artwork to seal it. Apply a nice puddle atop the paper, and then place the cabochon over the top. Rather than squeezing it down, try moving the cabochon around in a circular fashion to distribute the glue evenly across the entire surface of the artwork; this will help avoid any air bubbles from getting sandwiched between the paper and the cabochon. It may ooze a bit out the sides, but you can wipe the excess away with a damp cloth. Allow it to dry thoroughly, and then you’re ready to drop it into the pendant base, which has a magnetic coating inside the well.
The cabochons are acrylic and do a wonderful job of magnifying and clearly showcasing the artwork beneath! You are now ready add a chain, ribbon, cord or necklace of your choice through the bail.
TIP:If you find you ended up with air bubbles that dried in the Glossy Accents between the paper artwork and the cabochon, for whatever reason , you can actually re-do it!
Simply separate the cabochon very carefully from the magnet; drop the cabochon in some warm tap water and let it soak. While it’s soaking the paper and dissolving the Glossy Accents, you can usually remove any paper or Xyron adhesive residue from the magnetic disc itself with a baby wipe and a little elbow grease.
After allowing the cabochon to soak for a time, use the pads of your thumbs to rub away the paper—it should roll off fairly easily. Continue dunking the cabochon in the water and rubbing the paper and any remaining dried Glossy Accents off the cabochon. Dry it with a lint-free cloth and you’re ready to try again.
I am allergic to nickel, so I like to use a sterling snake chain necklace given to me by my husband years ago and I just swap the pendants out—but with this project, I can leave the pendant in place, and simply swap out the cabochon!
If you prefer a permanent option, you can certainly omit the magnets and glue the punched out artwork directly into the well of the pendant, and if you prefer a lower profile than the cabochon, you can seal the artwork by substituting the 1” Epoxy Dots, which are already self-adhesive.
Both the Cabochons and Epoxy (Circle) Dots come in 1” and ½” circle sizes, as do the N35 grade magnets—the round bracelet blanks are the perfect size for the ½” sized. Epoxy Dots also come in 20mm squares/tiles, which match the square bracelet blanks, as well as the alphabet tiles.
For a great children’s project, try making Bottle Cap Pendants with the 1” Caps and Epoxy Dots, or charm bracelets with the Mini ½” caps and matching Epoxy Dots—darling! The 1/16” Hole Punch makes it easy to create holds in the caps for inserting jump rings. The Bottle Caps come in silver, as well as a variety of colors. We also carry pre-flattened versions! To view the entire collection of Bottle Cap Jewelry Parts and Tools we carry, click HERE.
For me personally, it’s very exciting to have so many options for making beautiful jewelry pieces quickly and easily—I think a bracelet is next on my list!
Today I would like to share some information about the new Vintaj Patinas by Ranger. Julie and I were so lucky to be able to attend the class at CHA this past January and I have eagerly been awaiting the arrival of these gorgeous colored products. The thing I am most intrigued by, is the ability to color over any metal with these specialty inks and to have that coloring remain permanent without any additional products to cover them!
To begin I wanted to share some basic information about the Vintaj/Ranger Patinas and Glaze products.
First these inks are opaque, which allows you to paint them atop any metal covering the color beneath. Leave them as is, or use a sanding block to reveal some of the color and texture beneath.
There are 15 beautiful, blendable colors and a little of the color goes a long way!
They dry VERY quickly to a lustrous satin finish, so when working with them less is more - work in small areas at a time. Use about a pea size droplet to avoid the patina drying on your non-stick craft sheet. AND yes, work on a non-stick craft sheet to keep clean-up simple!
The Patinas are acid free and UV safe.
They differ from alcohol inks in that they do not need a coating atop them to make them permanent.
Clean your brushes immediately using water to avoid damaging your brush.
Do NOT mix the Patinas with water to thin, rather use the Vintaj Glaze. By mixing your Patina colorants with Glaze you will extend the Patinas creating a more glaze-like, semi-transparent effect atop paints and inks.
The Vintaj Glaze acts as a clear top coat that dries to a satiny finish.
The Glaze is non-yellowing and non-cracking.
It is fast drying and permanent once dry.
It is also acid free.
To begin I wanted to share a project that is so simple you can complete it in less than 15 minutes! Who doesn't love a personalized gift you can create in such a small amount of time!!
I had great intentions of getting an order together for myself when the product first arrived, but guess what... that didn't happen and by the time I went to check out my cart the colors I love and always use were gone!!! Oh dear, what to do? I'm not really a "purple" girl --- I should be being my birthstone is an Amythest, but... Well, as luck would have it those were my available colors and so I decided to just give them a go.
Using the Basic Grey Plumeria collection as my color inspiration I just went with the purple, put all my cards on the table so-to-speak, and let it ride. Oh my, but I was so mistaken - what an absolutely LOVELY combination! I hope these projects inspire you.
It is tough to create both a video and photo instructional post. Please excuse the quality of the pictures as I needed to take them out of the video as I was working this project completely on my own. For a complete step-by-step visual in high-speed (and yes, my hands will be moving at the speed of light - LOL) please watch the video here on our You-Tube channel or below.
Begin by vigorously shaking your Patina bottles until you feel satisfied that the pigment and liquid is thoroughly mixed. Each bottle has a B.B. in it to aid in mixing.
Place a pea-size amount directly on your non-stick craft sheet. I love using Claudine's Studio Brush shown above to apply the patina.
It is easiest to dab the Patina to the surface of your metal blank as it will get the color down into the dimension of these fabulous charms. While the Patinas are still wet you can easily mix the colors.
While the Patina is still wet you can also alter it's appearance by blotting with a paper towel or wiping away the excess. In this case I wiped away the excess Patina on the top surface of the metal blank leaving the colorant that is recessed in its' depths.
Apply colors - mix, dab, wipe, and blend. To reduce the intensity of the brighter colors I opted to apply the more neutral toned Agate over the brighter tone colors to mute them down and then wiped away the excess once again.
Once you have achieved the coloration you desire, use the Black Side (this is the coarsest grain of sandpaper on the block) of the Vintaj Sanding Tool to remove the excess Patina from the surface.
I was thrilled that I could also use the Patina to colorize the Filigree beads!
TIP: Create a holder for your bead using a fine-gauge wire. You can then use this same "threader" to insert and draw your ribbon through the bead.
Use Distress Stain to color your Essentials Ribbon or seam binding to coordinate. To create a mottled appearance do not apply the stain evenly.
Once again use your threader, created from fine-gauge wire, to draw your ribbon through those hard to reach holes.
Knot the ribbon on either side of the bead to hold it in place.
Attach your gorgeous colored metal charm to the opposite end. So quick and simple!!
This next project is definitely more in-depth, but I can assure you that it took far less time to create this beautiful necklace than it took to edit the video! The theme of course is birds, because just like in Portlandia, I like to put a bird on it - ha, ha!
I am by no means a jewelry designer, but this craft intrigues me and I so love creating projects using these beautiful products! You could easily incorporate any of these elements on to a card-front or tag as well, so I hope that those who are card makers will still enjoy this post and be able to use some of the information that follows in your projects.
Vintaj has also partnered with Sizzix to create these fab embossing and etching folders! It is fantastic having a couple of different methods of altering the metal blank surfaces as it affords two completely different looks! To begin I used a DecoEmboss Folder.
Simply position your metal blank over the design in the folder that appeals to you. Your Big Shot or Vagabond sandwich is simple - just use the platform and two clear acrylic cutting pads. Place your DecoEmboss folder between the cutting pads and send through your machine.
If you want to use the metal blank in the middle of a chain length, use the small size on the Tim Holtz drill press to create another hole directly opposite the original hole.
TIP: Mark the location where you would like to drill using a Copic Marker. Align the drill press and turn the crank. Release the metal piece by turning the crank back the opposite direction.
The second type of die Sizzix/Vintaj has created is the DecoEtch die. This die creates more of a line drawing or etched look. It is easy to see the difference in the completed project below.
Once again simply place your metal blank atop the area of the design that appeals to you. Sandwich between the two clear cutting pads and send through your Big Shot, Vagabond or Cuttlebug. (For those with a Cuttlebug use your B plate with this die.)
Dab the Patina directly atop your DecoEmbossed piece. While the colors are still wet you can easily mix the colors to create your own custom palette.
For the etched piece I used only one color of Patina.
While the Patina was still wet on the etched piece I used a paper towel to wipe away the excess that was on the surface of the die. The Patina that is embedded in the etched design will make it really stand out and is a gorgeous effect.
To pronounce this effect even further use the Black side of your Vintaj Sanding Tool to draw out the detail and expose your shiny metal surface.
My DecoEmbossed design was set aside to dry, but I used a Heat It tool to ensure that it was completely dry to make the Patina permanent before sanding.
Always remember to sand both sides of your project! You never know when your necklace might get turned around ;-D
Once again use the Black side of the sanding tool to remove the Patina from the raised, embossed surfaces.
Over time this surface may darken again as the metal is exposed to the air. You can apply the Vintaj Glaze to create a barrier from the air, but I love the look of the exposed metal in it's original state and so would rather take a sanding block to it from time to time to refresh the beautiful satin-like quality of the metal.
In this photo is is simple to see the extreme difference between the etched and embossed details. The etched blank is on the left and the embossed on the right. Combining the two on a single piece of jewelry or project creates a coordinated, yet diverse look.
Create your own little "fancy" embellishments from the fabulous wire we carry. I love to use some of the specialty Jewelry Making Tools we carry to create these little pieces. Specialty pliers make forming these rounded pieces so much easier, but you could also use a paintbrush handle, pencil or marker as your base to help you form your shapes.
The lower the number or gauge of the wire, the thicker the wire. I like to use the 18-gauge wire for the focal components of the embellishments with a lighter weight, 26-gauge wire used to wrap the details.
Place a steel block atop a rubber block before doing any of the pounding on your work surface to avoide damaging your table-top. As well the rubber block helps absorb some of the noise (definitely not all - LOL!) The flat-top hammer we carry is designed specifically for flattening wire. I LOVE the look of flattened wire! You can see how I used it here on one of my Feminine Tags as well.
Do not flatten the entire piece, but only portions. In this piece I flattened the top of the "horseshoe" as well as the little curliques, leaving an area round. This creates a lot of interest in a piece.
If you do not have a jump ring that is the correct size for your project make your own. Wrap the wire tightly around a pencil or brush handle that is the size you need. Be certain to push the wire tightly against itself with no space between the "rings." Snip using a wire cutter making certain that you only snip through two strands at a time. This will assure that your jump ring closes correctly - you always want your jump ring to be a complete circle before beginning.
The last component I created was the charming little bird's nest. I had no idea how to create this little gem and so I googled "wire-wrapped bird's nest" and up came a plethora of information. I read through multiple tutorials and then just went for it. This is my first bird's nest! So if I can do it, so can you!
To begin I used three little beige colored wood beads I had in my stash. They are itty-bitty! I didn't like the color and so decided to see how the patina worked on these little wooden beads. I dabbed Marine Patina on them and allowed them to dry before beginning.
Using a length of 26-gauge wire that was between 3-4 feet in length I began by stringing the three little beads onto the wire. Leave about a 3 inch length on one end and then wrap the remaining wire around a pencil to curl it as shown.
Stretch the wire long again leaving some kinks in place.
Continue by wrapping wire around the "eggs" ten times. Secure these strands in place by threading the end of the long wire up between the eggs, wrapping around all ten wires 2-3 times before moving forward and wrapping around the next egg. Once these wires are secured as shown above, move on.
Add additional layers of wire to the bottom side of the nest. I wrapped about 5 times and then would thread the wire back and forth through these layers, securing them to the top layer of the nest. I love this messy looking little bird's nest and hope to make more!
As you can see as I worked with the wooden beads the Patina did not adhere fully, so once my nest was completed I went back in with a tiny paint brush and dabbed on a little more Marine Blue to make the eggs look more like Robin's eggs.
Using two lengths of chain, a few more beads, an amethyst colored stone and this lariet-style necklace was complete. I feel giddy with excitement that it turned out so beautiful and look forward to presenting it to a wonderful lady in my life some day soon!
Sizzix Original Jewelry Dies are so versatile! You can use them together with your papercrafting supplies to create jewelry and embellishments to use on your cardfronts or scrapbook pages --- there are so many possibilities!!!
The Original Medium Dies are thick steel-rule construction dies, similar to the Tim Holtz dies in depth, but measuring approximately 2 3/4" x 4 1/2" in size. These dies are designed to cut through chipboard, grungeboard, Clearly for Art and plastic materials, fun foam, fabric magnet, vellum, sandpaper, metallic foils, Shimmer Sheetz and more.
Today I wanted to share how you can create metallic-look jewelry by simply using Inkssentials Foil together with Craft-a-Board. Remove the backing from the Inkssentials Foil and apply to both sides (front and back) of a piece of Craft-a-Board that is cut to the same size.
Cut out the jewelry pieces by sending this through your die cut machine. I adore my Vagabond as there is no cranking necessary, but the Big Shot & Cuttlebug work great as well ;-D
Craft-a-Board is the perfect choice for use with embossing folders. It is thick enough to be sturdy and hold it's shape and yet thin enough that the impression from embossing folders is incredible!
At this point you could alter the color of the foil with alcohol inks, but that is another lesson for the near future :-D
Tim's new drill press is perfect for adding a teeny, tiny hole in which to place jump rings in the earring drop. Again, the Craft-a-Board shape is sturdy enough to create these awesome earrings and yet is SO lightweight that you will not even notice these earrings when you wear them.
Art Parts, Clearly for Art Blackout is another product that works WONDERFULLY with these dies.
TIP: Use the Concave Round Nose Pliers and 24 gauge wire to help you create perfectly shaped loops, allowing you to customize the predesigned bead lengths we carry.
The necklace was created using an altered Vintage Groove Silk and Shell Combo Strand. By simply snipping the thread that holds the shells together I was easily able to create two custom lengths of beads. It was fun to create a fashionable assymetrical piece by adding a Maya Road Golden Yellow Ruffle Blossom to one side.
The earrings were embellished with Jenni Bowlin Pearl Charms.
Vintage Inspired Netting was sandwiched between two coordinating patterns from the Out of Print paper pad. Using a small bow created from the ribbon we send in our thank you notes I then hung the focal point jewelry piece like a piece of wall art. This piece could then be removed and turned into a pendant piece as well.
I hope this inspires you to continue to meld your jewelry making supplies together with your papercrafting goodies! To be able to create wearable gifts is so much fun!!!
For the last week I've been playing with a versatile and intriguing product: Ice Resin. Along the way I've learned a few tips and tricks to share with you. First, some general information: Ice Resin is a two-part, jeweler's-grade clear epoxy. Besides the two-part epoxy, you will also need a release agent (think of it as Pam for molds). Trust me--when you run out of this, you are finished. It's that important. You will also need a mold to pour the epoxy into, as well as any colorants or inclusions that you might wish to add to the mixture.
Let's start with molds; you have a few options here. First, you can purchase craft molds. These are reusable polypropylene molds available in several basic shapes. Again, remember to spray the molds with release agent to prevent the epoxy from sticking to the mold.
A second mold possibility is one that you create using found objects and Mold n' Pour. Mold n' Pour is a two-part putty that hardens into a flexible, reusable mold. One caution: don't over-knead the Mold n' Pour. (Trust me on this one. . .) The putty above is not thoroughly mixed; you can tell by the marbled appearance that it still needs to be mixed more.
The Mold n' Pour here is well-mixed--no more white striations. Seriously, though, if you get carried away and over-knead the putty, it will start hardening in your hands. Two minutes is long enough, even if it feels good in your hands and you are having fun. I've used a couple of Vintaj brass pieces here, as well as some seashells that I picked up off the beach in Tel Aviv many years ago. Isn't that baby conch shell the sweetest? Unfortunately, I didn't have enough Ice Resin left to fill this one, but I've ordered more.
Another possibility is using a pre-made frame as a mold. I tried two different types, a Memory Frame that I had sealed the back of with clear packing tape, as well as some jewelry blanks with a hollow well in which to pour the resin. (I used a 1-1/2" copper patina Memory Frame on the left and a oval jewelry blanks similar to this and this on the right, except that I used a smaller sized oval for the pendant.) The paper insert in the Memory Frame is from Graphic45's Steampunk Debutante 8" x 8" pad. If you are using a non-glossy paper beneath your epoxy, you must coat the paper on both sides with white glue or Mod Podge to seal it. If you don't, the paper will become translucent.
Once you have your molds ready, you can mix the epoxy. As is typical for any epoxy, measuring precisely and mixing thoroughly are critical. Read all of the directions before you begin. If the room in which you are working is cool, it will help to let both bottles sit in a sink full of very warm water for 30-40 minutes before you try to mix the parts. When you are ready to mix your epoxy, begin with Part A, the resin, and add the same amount of part B, the hardener. Stir for at least two minutes, making sure that the two parts are completely mixed. If you have any questions about mixing, go here to the Ice Resin site for instructions and pictures.
After you have mixed your epoxy, let it sit for about five minutes if you have any bubbles. (I had no bubbles, but I had heated the bottles in warm water before I started; I think the gentle heat helped by thinning the resin a bit.) You will have about 30-45 minutes of working time to work with the resin after it is mixed. I mixed two batches of the epoxy, making one fluid ounce both times--1/2 oz. of both resin and hardener.Because I had my molds prepared ahead of time, I had plenty of time to use all of the epoxy before it started to get hard.
The epoxy will be clear when you mix it well. I knew that I wanted to add some color to my Ice Resin. You can purchase oil-based colorants, but if you have artists' oil paint on hand, that works well also. (Here is more information on coloring Ice Resin.) I poured a small amount of clear resin into a second plastic cup to add color and stirred it in with the amount of paint that was on a toothpick--a small amount goes a long way.
Besides color, you can add other inclusions before pouring your Ice Resin. Some that I had on hand were mica flakes, ultrafine glitter, and bits of baked polymer clay.
When you are pouring the ice resin, you probably will not be able to get a convex surface on your first pour. (Again, trust me on this one. . .) If you want a convex surface, let it dry and add a few drops to the top of your dry epoxy the next day. The epoxy is self-leveling, so don't count too highly on surface tension to keep it in place if you try to add too much.
To a second plastic container I added some white oil paint.
When I removed these pieces from their molds the next day, I really didn't like them at all. They looked "plastic-y." However, when I pulled out my Copic Various inks and started dripping ink on these, they quickly became some of my favorites. I love it when an experiment turns out right!
Here was a second white piece after being doctored by Copic Various inks.
And here it is after I drilled holes, added jump rings and beads, and attached a chain.
To the Memory Frame and Steampunk Debutante piece I added a Vintaj bee charm.
This little blue beauty needed a VIntaj bird charm and more of my superstore beads.
These are Sunday jewelry, for sure!
I hope that you get a chance to play with Ice Resin. As you can see, I had a hard time knowing when to stop, and I have several more pieces to dress up next time I get a chance to play. Thank you for visiting the In Touch blog today!
