In Touch

Ink Pad Comparisons - Let's Get Inky and Explore! by Ellen Hutson

Please be advised that the information to follow is my own personal perspective and is not to be taken as the official information on ink and ink pads. It is going to get long and boring for some of you, but I hope that you will find it interesting and of value. This information comes with a HUGE disclaimer! You must not take this as final word on any of these products, it is only my opinion and my experience. Ink characteristics can change dependent upon the paper that you select, as well as the environment in which you live. This information has been garnered over time through my own experience, as well as through conversations with manufacturers representatives and much reading. It is my interpretation of what it is that I have learned.

My hope is that through this post you can begin to understand some of the differences between the many inks pads that are available to you, but I am absolutely certain (without a doubt!) that I have missed something that may be of importance. As all good students I will continue to explore, and hopefully as a good teacher, I will not tell you that I know everything about this subject. I do NOT know everything. I am not a chemist, I am not an ink manufacturer - I am only a person who loves to stamp and share what I have learned. So let's get started.

There are MANY different ink manufacturers in today's world. The four primary rubber stamping ink pad manufacturers, whose products I have worked with are:

• Ranger Ink Industries
• Stewart Superior
• Tsukineko LLC
• Clearsnap/Color Box

I have had wonderful success with ink pads and inks from all of these manufacturers.

In addition to these four main manufacturers there are many more private labeled stamp pads, and most likely other manufacturers that I have missed. Some, but not all, include: Stampin' Up!, PaperTrey Ink, Impress, A Muse, and Hero Arts . These stamp pads are typically manufactured by one of the "big name" companies (please note that I said typically - I do not know where all stamp pads are manufactured and so this has a huge disclaimer on it). These companies most often are producing colors of ink pads to coordinate with a specific line of products they carry or manufacture. I believe that most of these companies will have resources available to teach you about their individual line of products. Since it is my goal with this article to primarily teach you about the inks that I have selected to carry in our store I will not be referencing these companies in this article. That is not to say that these are not good products. I am certain that many of these products are of similar quality.

As a beginner stamper the first stamp pads I fell in love with were the Adirondack Dye Ink Pads. One of the very first techniques I learned from a friend and fellow stamper/teacher, was to use dye ink on glossy cardstock. The vibrancy of the colors was addictive!

It has taken quite a lot of time, and expense (you should see all the different ink pads I own - LOL!), to explore the many varieties of stamp pads on the market. At first I found it quite confusing. It is this confusion that I hope I can help many beginner stampers, and perhaps even some of the more advanced stampers, dispel with today.

Again, please be advised that the information to follow is my own personal perspective.

RUBBER STAMPING INK TYPES

Let's start with the different varieties of ink types.

Most common variety of ink pads:

• Dye
• Pigment

Other varieties include:

• Hybrid
• Solvent
• Resist, Watermarking and Embossing
• Glue
• Tattoo
• Bleaching

Dye Inks:

• dye ink is thinner in consistency than pigment ink and will typically dry more quickly
• it can be permanent, non-permanent, or permanent only after heat activation - be certain to read individual labels for this information
• ink is more "transparent" in nature
• typically this pad consists of a cloth covered felt pad with a surface raised above the edge of the ink pad container - this characteristic makes it more user friendly when applying the ink pad directly to the paper (DTP)
• some dye inks, specifically chalk inks, are made of a foam pad with a high density "skin" on top of it - foam pad varieties need to be inked more frequently and are easier to over-ink (see below for more information regarding chalk ink)
• some recommend storing dye ink pads upside down - this is to keep the ink at the top of the pad. I prefer to store mine right side up and purchase a reinker when I purchase a new pad. A properly inked pad is one of the most useful tools you own.
• dye ink pads come in a large variety of colors
• products that fit within this category:
  • Adirondack Dye Ink Pads, Ranger
  • Ancient Page, Clearsnap/Color Box
  • Archival Ink Pads, Ranger
  • Distress Ink Pads, Ranger
  • Kaleidacolor Dye Ink Pads, Tsukineko
  • Memento Ink Pads, Tsukineko
  • Memories Acid Free Dye Ink Pads, Stewart Superior
  • Vivid, Clearsnap/Color Box
• chalk inks:
  •  a variety of dye ink pad, but due to the extensive differences I felt that they deserved their own heading
  • provide opaque ink coverage
  • muted chalky look with whitish residue or "chalky look" visible in reinkers
  • my personal preference for use with polymer stamps (because we do not carry a large variety of polymer stamps in our store, we do not currently carry this type of ink pad)
  • dye ink typically in a skin-foam ink pad
  • products that fit within this category:
    • Antiquities, Ranger
    • Fluid Chalk Ink Pads, Clearsnap/Color Box
    • Fresco, Stampa Rosa
    • Memories Chalk Inks, Stewart Superior
    • VersaMagic, Tsukineko

Pigment Inks:

• thick and slow drying on paper
• more opaque then dye inks
• most suitable for embossing techniques (embossing powders)
• may not dry on non-porous surfaces such as plastic or metal
• may contain glycerin - this ingredient provides increased dry time
• typically acid-free
• more fade resistant than dye inks and therefore perhaps more useful in scrapbooks
• best for stamping on absorbent papers where sharp detail is needed
• some pigment inks can be heat set for permanence on plastic, vellum or fabric
• Brilliance inks dry naturally on smooth surfaces such as vellum and/or coated papers, but it can take time
• pigment pads are typically foam style pads - ink soaks in to the pad, yet ink is available when ready to stamp
• pigment pads need to be reinked much more regularly than standard dye ink pads
• due to their "squishy" nature be certain to use a light hand, do not push your stamp in to this variety of ink pad but lightly press ink it on the surface of the foam pad. If you overink your stamp you will end up with a "messy" stamped image. You will need to completely clean your rubber stamp before inking it again.
• products that fit within this category:
  • Adirondack Pigment Ink Pads, Ranger
  • Brilliance Fast Drying Pigment Ink Pads, Tsukineko
  • Color Box Crafters, Clearsnap/Color Box
  • Encore Metallic Pigment Ink Pads, Tsukineko
  • VersaColor Pigment Ink Pads, Tsukineko
  • VersaCraft Ink Pads, Tsukineko (previously known as Fabrico - designed for stamping on fabric, wood, leather, shrink plastic, polymer clay, porcelain)
  • VersaFine Ink Pads, Tsukineko - this natural oil-based pigment ink dries instantly on matte cardstock, providing incredibly fine detail. Advised that no reinkers is needed for this stamp pad because it lasts 3-4 times longer than regular inks, but coming out with reinkers for most used colors shortly, if not already. I believe I will start carrying these shortly after this study Ü
  • Pigment Petal Points, Clearsnap/Color Box

Hybrid Inks - Palette by Stewart Superior:

• combination of dye and pigment ink (does not contain solvents)
• works on most surfaces including glass, plastic, acetate, metal, fabric and more
• does not smell bad and is nonflammable
• dries instantly on paper and porous surfaces; can require heat setting on glossy surfaces and fabrics
• dries too quickly to be a good embossing ink in most regions of the U.S.
• raised pad surface
• fast drying
• waterproof

Solvent Inks:

• Solvent based inks need a special cleaner and typically have an "odor" to them (example - Staz-On)
• Opaque and dries on smooth surfaces such as glass, dominos, metal and acetate
• most common variety available - Staz-On

Resist, Watermark, and Embossing Inks:

• resist ink is designed to resist dye based ink when stamped on glossy or coated papers - will not provide resist effect on standard card stock
• watermark ink is designed to leave a "watermark" or tone-on-tone effect on standard card stock
• the sticky nature of watermark inks allows them to be used as embossing powders or to attract pigment powders
• products that fit within this category:
  • Clear Resist, Ranger
  • Embossing Ink, Ranger
  • Perfect Medium, Ranger
  • VersaMark and VersaMark Dazzle, Tsukineko

Specialty Ink Pads:

• Glue Pads:
  •  Most common varieties available:
    • Essential Glue Pad, Tsukineko
    • Palette Stamp and Stick Glue Pad, Stewart Superior
• Tattoo Ink Stamp Pads:
  •  Most common varieties available:
    •  Stampin' Up!
• Castaway Pad by Jacquard - lightens paper similar to bleach, but supposed to be more effective than stamping with bleach. I did not have good results with this pad.

THE INKS WE CARRY AND WHY

 

For your convenience this is a quick link to our store and the entire line of ink pads we carry.

RANGER INK INDUSTRIES

• Distress Ink Pads and Reinkers:
  • The amazing versatility when it comes to using this ink pad for distress and watercolor techniques is the primary reason we carry these ink pads.
    • slow drying inks (stay wet longer) allowing you to blend, shade and emboss on photos and paper
    • works well for direct to paper (DTP) - apply the ink pad directly to paper to create an aged look
    • perfect for distressing papers and coloring photos
    • distress ink works well on all types of photos - inkjet, laser, toner copies, regular photos (both matte and glossy) and even can be used to "color" photos. Start by applying a light color using a brayer, DTP or ink blending tool. Blend colors with tool or finger, softening edges. These inks stay wet long enough for you to blend out any lines or marks that other ink pads leave on photos.
    • the fluidity of this ink allows the color to wick and spread out, traveling across the surface of your paper when spritzed with water. Other dye inks do not "travel" in the same manner. This capacity allows for creating beautiful tone on tone colors.
    • color stability - the integrity of these colors remain true after being watered down or heated, allowing for greater color control. Unlike other comparative products that may change color when water is introduced. For example brown colored dyes will typically break down when water is added, leaving behind pink or green hues on your paper. Distress inks will not do this.
    • these inks work beautifully for watercolor techniques - apply ink directly to stamp, spritz with water and stamp or apply by using a droplet of ink and a watercolor brush.
    • to distress papers apply ink directly to paper, spritz with water, crumple and tear. Heat to dry for greater color/tone control and contrast.
    • to create a charcoal sketch effect stamp image inked with Black Soot, then lightly spritz with water.
    • put a few drops of distress ink or apply an ink pad direct to a Teflon sheet. Spritz with water and then pull cardstock through mixture; swirling, pulling, drying and then applying a new layer will provide many unique looks.
• Adirondack Dye Ink Pads and Reinkers
  • The primary reason we carry this ink pad is for its clean lines when used with Copic Markers, coupled together with a fast drying time. This was the first ink that I discovered that I was pleased with the results when used together with Copic Markers. We began with only two colors - Pitch Black and Espresso, but have since added more colors to our store to complete the line for those who love this ink variety as much as I do. I have yet to test these colors with the Copic Markers and so you will need to stay tuned for that experiment.
    • non-toxic, fast drying ink
    • large color variety:
      • lights - great for shadow stamping or tone-on-tone stamping
      • brights - vibrant colors
      • earthtones - luscious colors, some of my first favorites!
    • Pitch Black and Espresso do not bleed when stamped on Neenah cardstock and allowed approximately a minute to dry before coloring with Copic Markers
• Adirondack Pigment Ink Pads
  • In looking for a white pigment ink that had full opaque coverage when stamping on colored cardstock I was very impressed with the look established with the use of the Adirondack Pigment Snow Cap Ink Pad. We have since added the full line of pigment pads to give our customers more pigment options.
    • acid free, non-toxic, archival
    • rich, opaque ink
    • air dries on matte papers
    • embossable
    • heat set on gloss paper, vellum, mica, shrink plastic, metal and glass
    • be certain to replace the liner before replacing lid for added protection against drying out
• Archival Ink Pad and Reinker
  • This ink pad is a definite "go to" when it comes to black ink due to its versatility in use on many surfaces. As well, it is useful for numerous specialty techniques.
    • acid-free, permanent, dye ink
    • oil-based making it a perfect ink for stamping over alcohol-ink applications (please note that I said stamping OVER - this ink is not recommended for stamping images and then coloring these images in with alcohol based markers)
    • great for using with watercolors and/or water based markers, due to being waterproof
    • great for resist methods on coated paper
    • does not deteriorate paper or precious photos
    • does not bleed when painted or brayered over with watercolors, colored pencils, water-based inks and markers, or pearl pigments
    • acts as a "resist" when stamped on surfaces that are not porous such as glass. Archival Ink seems to literally "eat" the alcohol ink when alcohol ink is applies to glass, allowed to dry and then stamped with an image inked in Archival Ink - watch for more to come on this technique.
• Perfect Medium Ink Pads, Markers and Reinkers
  • This ink pad was specially developed to work with Perfect Pearls Pigments and when used in conjunction with these powders gives superior results to other pad varieties. Who can resist the beautiful "glimmery mist" you can create using these powders? I can never just have one use for a product though and wanted to be able to maximize the use of the Perfect Pearls by having an ink pad that would work in conjunction with these beauties.
    • great for resist, embossing or watermark effects
    • wonderful for shadow stamping and subtle background work when combined with Perfect Pearls

STEWART SUPERIOR INK PRODUCTS

• Palette Hybrid Ink Pads
  • This is my go-to ink for stamping on "unusual" surfaces. I also use it frequently when I watercolor.
    • waterproof
    • use on any surface - glass, metal, fabric, wood and more
    • acid free, archival and non-fading

TSUKINEKO INK PRODUCTS

• Memento Ink Pads
  • the primary reason we carry this ink pad is for its clean lines when used with Copic Markers, coupled together with its fast drying time.
    • fast drying dye based ink
    • fade resistant
    • delivers fine impressions and even coverage 
• Essential Glue Pad
  •  this glue pad has provided superior adhesion to any other brands I have tried
    • adhesive in an ink pad
    • allows you to stamp an image and cover it in glitter, chalk, pigment powders, foil or flocking
• Brilliance Pigment Ink Pads
  • the primary reason we carry this ink pad is because we wanted to offer a pigment ink that would work with Copic Markers for customers who want to work with Copic Markers on a more porous paper.
    • non-toxic, archival and acid free
    • fast drying pigment ink
    • pigment ink that dries naturally on vellum and glossy paper (no heat setting required - just time)
    • vibrant, rich color
    • great for stamping on vellum, shrink plastic, gloss paper, polymer clay, acetate, leather and mica
    • not great on metal
• VersaMark Ink Pads, VersaMarkers and VersaMark Dazzle Ink Pads and Reinkers
  • my first love in watermark effects, coupled together with the sparkle that is now available makes it irresistable.
    • watermark - beautiful tone-on-tone effect on cardstock that is colored all the way through
    • emboss - long dry time allows for ease in use with embossing powders
    • resists ink on glossy or coated papers
    • heat set for stronger resist effect and quicker dry times
    • Dazzle - use as a shimmery watermark or heat set on glossy paper and brayer over with dye ink for a beautiful shimmer resist. I have found that it is necessary to reink this pad frequently for best results.

CLEANING RUBBER STAMPS

Now that you are all inky what is the best way to get your rubber stamps clean? For me the exploration for cleaning tools ended when I discovered Stewart Superior Inks Ultra Clean. It is like magic in a bottle! I can't even begin to remember when I first posted about this product and I am happy to say that my opinion has NOT changed. This was one of my children's favorite stamps before UltraClean and then after. Pictures truly are worth a thousand words.

So simply said there are two products I use to clean my stamps in addition to water and they are:

• UltraClean by Stewart Superior
• Rubit-Scrubit Pad

AS A BEGINNING STAMPER WHAT DO I NEED?

• start with a multi-purpose black ink pad:
  • if using alcohol ink markers begin with either a Memento Tuxedo Black Ink Pad or an Adirondack Dye Pitch Black Ink Pad  
• • if wanting to watercolor begin with either a Palette Noir Ink Pad or an Archival Jet Black Ink Pad
• next I would purchase a watermark, resist, embossing pad such as VersaMark or Perfect Medium
• then I would begin to add colors, and add more colors, and then even more colors - LOL! Yes, I need to take pictures of my ink pads and how I store them, but that is a complete topic in and of itself Ü

INK IN A NUTSHELL - THE CHARTS

Download INK COMPARISON CHART_DYE, PIGMENT, HYBRID

Download INK COMPARISON CHART_WATERMARK, EMBOSSING, RESIST, OTHER

The ink pad market is constantly advancing as new products are being discovered and so what might be "the word" one day, can instantly change when a new product arrives on the market. Manufacturers are continually striving to produce products that are new and improved. Sometimes it is an old product that gets manufactured with a new look or new packaging; other times it is new technology that has been discovered. This doesn't necessarily make one product better than the next - it only makes it different or perhaps improved.

Much time goes in to learning and teaching, and I am so very grateful to you for your support of our little store, it is your support that brings you the projects created by our designers and myself - for that I THANK YOU! I hope that this information will be useful to you as you work with the products that you have purchased from us. Now go and get inky ladies!!! Give one of the techniques a try - it is WAAAAY FUN!

Best Inks To Use With Copic Markers by Sharon Harnist

Since Copic markers are an alcohol-based dye ink, they require a certain type of ink to be compatible when coloring rubber stamped images.  For instance, Tsukineko's Staz-On ink is usually permanent on just about any surface but the alcohol in Copics react to the solvent in Staz-On and basically reactivate the dried Staz-On and will smear an image stamped with it: 

The scribble of pink under the marker tip is the color the marker is supposed to be.  See how the marker reacts with the Staz-On stamped sleeves and smears them?

Following are a few different ink options that work well with Copics.

Note: For these tests, I used Neenah Classic Solar White 80 lb. cardstock and Lockhart Stamp Company's Vintage Apron stamp.

My all-time favorite ink to use with Copics is Tsukineko's dye-based Memento Tuxedo Black ink pad.  It stamps crisp, clean and clear, dries very quickly and a stamped image can be colored immediately after stamping, with no smearing:

 

Above are examples of coloring a Memento stamped image (upper left) immediately after stamping, (upper right) 30 seconds after stamping, and (bottom) one minute after stamping. 

Below are the results of using Copic's Colorless Blender, repeatedly rubbing over the stamped lines of the apron's neckstrings (right where the marker tip is pointing):

The Blender was rubbed repeated over the black stamped lines and never smeared. This ink performed excellent on all the tests.

Next is Ranger's Adirondack Pitch Black dye-based ink pad.  It also stamps crisp, clean and clear but generally needs just a little bit longer to dry well on its own.

The same coloring tests were performed -- immediately after stamping, 30 seconds after stamping, and one minute after stamping:

 

My apologies for the blurriness at the top of the photo, but hopefully if you click on the photo for a closer look, you'll see a little smearing on the top left sleeve (immediately after stamping).  But as the ink dried on its own, you'll see it performed well under normal coloring circumstances.

But the Blender marker test left a little smearing of the stamped neckstrings (click for a closer view):

 

Keep in mind, the Blender marker was rubbed repeatedly over the stamped lines, so under normal coloring circumstances, you probably wouldn't experience this problem.

I also tried heat setting the Adirondack ink for 30 seconds and then waited for 10-15 minutes before coloring the stamped image, with improved coloring results:

 

Bleeding with the Blender test was also improved:

Lastly, I tested Tsukineko's Brilliance Graphite Black pigment ink pad.  This is the ink I used to use all the time with my Copics, before Tsukineko came out with their Memento line of ink.  Because it is pigment-based, you will need to let this ink dry thoroughly before coloring it, or quickly heat set it.  In my test, I let the stamped image air dry for about an hour, with these results:

 

Same crisp, clear and clean stamped image and no bleeding of the stamped lines when Copic marker was applied over the ink.  Remember, I colored outside of the lines on the left sleeve for testing purposes below (wink)!

This ink also performed excellently, even after repeated rubbing with the Blender marker to remove the pink marker on the neckstring.

I hope that gives you some ink options to keep in mind when coloring with your Copics!  Below is a little eye candy I made with one of these stamped Lockhart Vintage Aprons, combining it with the more masculine/less frilly Apron:

 

Invitation Supplies:

• Lockhart Apron & Vintage Apron
• Memento Tuxedo Black ink
• Copic markers RV34, RV17, YG03, YG17, E47
• Basic Grey Sultry papers
• Memory Box Currant notecard
• Martha Stewart Zig Zag Edger Punch

• Computer generated wording

Distress Inks and Archival Inks by Cindy Lyles

Tim Holtz created the Distress line of ink pads and re-inkers with Ranger Industries.  Ranger's home and manufacturing offices are located in Tinton Falls, New Jersey.  Distress Inks consist of twenty-four colors, are acid-free, fade resistant, water-based dye inks, and are made in the USA.

Distress inks are the ideal perfection of a product made specifically for creating vintage effects, a natural weathered look, and/or aged effects with paper, fibers, photos and other media. 

Distress inks were formulated to maintain their color and tonal value when they come in contact with water.  They are a dye ink, but do not dry immediately, and blend beautifully as a result of their longer dry time.  Dry time is about 15-20 seconds give or take; longer in moist climates and shorter in dry ones.

Archival Inks are also made by Ranger.  Ranger's Archival line are oil-based, dye ink pads, acid-free, waterproof, fade resistant and non-bleeding.  Safe for paper and photos, and an ideal ink when paired with Distress inks, as this ink refuses to bleed and dries almost immediately. 

Today I'd like to cover three very basic techniques (techniques developed by and courtesy of Tim Holtz) that demonstrate the incredible effects you can easily achieve with Distress ink pads:  Wrinkle Free, Nostalgic Batik and Wrinkled.

Wrinkle Free

Wrinkle Free is an easy technique for creating a quick custom background.  For this technique, begin by smearing a few Distress pads onto a non-stick craft sheet.  Ranger's craft sheets are glass-infused mats - a thin, wonderful work surface, non-absorbent, and I have yet to find an adhesive or product that sticks to them.  The inks sit obediently on the surface of the mat, tempting you with ideas...

Mist the swipes of ink well with water from a Mini Mister, then drop a piece of white cardstock into the wet ink (size of cardstock used:  3" x 5" - this size is used throughout all three techniques covered in this post).  Lift cardstock and heat set with a heat tool.  Repeat dipping and heat setting, until desired look is achieved.

You can begin by stamping on the altered cardstock, or, alter it a bit further with a mask (Ellen carries an enormous selection of fabulous masks in the store).  For this sample, I applied the mask, then sponged Peeled Paint Distress ink using an Ink Blending Tool.  Wipe mask clean then remove.

Stamp Mona Lisa Motivational Centers with Jet Black Archival ink, and add Memory Box Brandywine Flourish randomly using Peeled Paint Distress ink.

Altered, masked and stamped cardstock was simply matted and added to a Lagoon card base.  Matching Lagoon envelope was stamped using Jet Black Archival ink.

Nostalgic Batik
 

For Nostalgic Batik, start with clear embossing powder, a few Distress inks, white cardstock and a stamp (Memory Box Bird Branch used).

Stamp image using any Distress ink.  Since Distress ink has a slower dry time than traditional dye-based inks, you can emboss with any Distress ink.  Sprinkle clear embossing powder over image and heat set.

Begin blending cardstock using a variety of Distress inks and an Ink Blending Tool.  The Ink Blending Tool contains a piece of Cut 'n Dry Foam, also manufactured by Ranger.  A Cut 'n Dry Foam piece looks similar to a makeup applicator sponge; however, it is a closed cell foam, and will not fully absorb the stamp pad ink.  This will conserve your stamp pad ink and allow you to blend colors beautifully.

 

Scattered Straw Distress ink provides an overall warmth to the piece.  Scattered Straw could easily be described as my 'secret weapon' when an aura of warmth is needed.  Once all colors have been blended and you've achieved the desired look, wipe the embossed, stamped image with a clean, dry cloth or dry paper towel.

 

Next, remove the clear embossing powder by placing a clean piece of newsprint over the stamped/embossed image, and ironing with a craft iron.  This process simply re-melts the clear embossing powder and the newsprint absorbs it, removing it neatly from your project.

 

Memory Box 'Just a Note' sentiment and Paprika envelope were stamped using Jet Black Archival ink; Bird Branch image was quickly matted with Licorice cardstock and a Paprika cardbase partially covered using Graphic 45's Shutter Speed.

Wrinkled

The incredible popularity of distressing everything from paper to clothing to furniture has continued to thrive.  It is incredibly satisfying and enjoyable to take a perfectly pristine piece of cardstock and alter it beyond recognition into a gorgeous aged art piece.

To begin, break the tension in the cardstock by pushing on the center of the cardstock scrap with your thumbs, then continue to crumple the cardstock gently into a ball.  If you simply ball the cardstock up without first breaking the tension at the center of the paper you run the risk of tearing the cardstock.

Flatten the crumpled cardstock with your fingers, then swipe a Distress pad over the entire paper surface.  Hold the open ink pad in your hand and repeatedly sweep over the crumpled cardstock surface.  Vintage Photo Distress used here.  This is called DTP, or Direct to Paper technique.

 

Using a Mini Mister, spritz inked cardstock generously with water and watch the ink flow and bleed across the paper surface.

Use a hot craft iron (working over a non-stick craft sheet or towel) or a heat tool, and heat set the water and ink, and iron the cardstock dry and flat.

 

Repeat the process using other inks if desired.  To warm up the tones in the wrinkled cardstock I opted to use Scattered Straw and Antique Linen.

To create a unique card embellishment, use Graphic 45 Postage paper and punch a mini Library Pocket, score the punch, then form a nifty little pocket.  Next, let's make something to attach this miniature pocket to:

 

The small tags above display the progression of Distress ink application, and how beautifully the Distress inks blend and create to an aged, vintage look.

 

Finished card with Wrinkled cardstock and miniature pocket above.  Memory Box Tiny Packages interior sentiment is from Memory Box; found vintage dictionary sheet snippet and pieces of Graphic 45 Shutter Speed cardstock.  Card base with matching envelope is Cranberry.

 

Cranberry envelope and message insert above:  the gorgeous Cappa Flourish stamp is from Memory Box.

Pink Tulip: Watercoloring with Ink by Debbie Olson

I have to admit that when it comes to coloring, I habitually reach for my Copic markers! Occasionally we all need to shake it up a bit and use something different. Since this month's focus is ink, I chose to watercolor a stamped Tulip image with Adirondack ink refills.

The inks that I generally use when I am stamping an image that I plan to watercolor are Palette inks or Brilliance. If I use Brilliance, I heat-set it before painting, especially if I am using it on a really absorbent paper such as Arturo paper.

For this piece, I stamped my image on an Arturo Soft White Single with Palette Noir ink. I then put just a drop of reinker from the Meadow, Watermelon, and Lemonade inks on a scrap piece of acetate and use a medium and a small waterbrush to paint my image. Water-based reinkers are very simple to watercolor with. Keep in mind that they are concentrated, so a little goes a long way.

Helpful hints:(1) If I'm coloring an image that has a deep color (such as a dark pink or deep red) on the perimeter, I normally float my background color in first. That way I don't have to be so careful around the edges to avoid making my deep color bloom out into my pale background. (2) Before you color an image, decide upon your light source. It doesn't really matter where that theoretical light is coming from, as long as you are consistent with it. (3) Shadow areas tend to be not only darker in value, but also a bit cooler in temperature than well-lit areas. (4) Always THINK before you paint. For example, in the tulip, one petal overlaps another. The top petal will be lighter in value than the one that wraps underneath it. Also, look for lines that indicated crevices or humps and render then accordingly. A couple of minutes of thinking time will save you time trying to correct your mistakes afterward!

The background of this card is stamped in Adirondack Watermelon ink using a Tulle Damask Scrapblock. I then used some Long Rectangle Nestabilities to cut and emboss both my image and top mat layer.

Thank you for visiting the In Touch blog today!